Recently I decided I needed a new Eldar modelling challenge. Given I started off in epic in the long ago as an introduction to the 40k universe one of the models that came to mind - the Bright Stallion.
The Bright stallion is an eldar knight variant made of wraithbone, usually equipped with a psychic lance and sometimes secondary weapons like scatter lasers.
The original Bright Stallion...
I have seen a few attempts on various blogs and was tempted to try my own 40k version and given that none of those had a walkthrough I reckoned that might be useful to ... so here it is!
So I started with the common components that I have seen from other blogs ..2 warwalkers and Wraithlords.
First step for me was taking the block mount for 2 warwalkers, I included the component with the vents on both front and back. Mounted the hull piece on the rear and then trimmed the front block to thin it up The The blocks were mounted front to front to ensure that the gap between the legs would be as wide as possible. I also stripped the fins to ensure the faces on the rear and back were smooth and flat. (note here that these facings are slightly canted so need to be ground down to flat).
I also mounted holofield pieces from a falcon kit on the left and right over the rear " arm holes" of the rear block.
Top, side and bottom views of the main body assembly
In the below you can also see the canopy component positioned on the right side.
The legs were made simply by using the leg mounting posts from the 2 walker kits. the rear mounting post was fixed to the hip components from the war walker kit.
In order to fix the hips of the walkers to the rear of the body block I drilled the central column
and pinned it to the rear off the central body. This further extended the gap between the legs and
was important for balance. The front legs were fixed in the usual place on the front block
I clipped off the vanes on both front and back. Note also you have to cut the legs just above the fairing joints and flip it 180 degrees to get the "heels" all pointing in the right direction. This is difficult and will need some filling & filing as even with a perfectly clean cut the curves are a little different front to back.
I would recommend not gluing the legs at this point as positioning is tricky later.
Once the central body components were in place I used the cockpit canopys to give a smoother line and to fill out the body somewhat. These ran from the top of the forward component
of the central body and glued to the hips at the rear. This also adds a little more strength to the build.
With the body and legs more or less complete I started on the wraithlord upper body.
This goes together exactly like a regular wraithlord for the chest, vanes and head. In order to fit it to the front of the body I shaved off the rear of the wraithlord to flatten it at an angle which fit with the body
You only really get 1 shot at this if you take too much so make sure you are comfortable with the
angle. This was then pinned and fixed to the body in a centaur style pose.
For the arms I used the bent right arm and trimmed back a pulse laser to fit it directly, no trigger hand,
so it mounts as underslung. This was added to with a few pieces from a Talos sprue to bulk it out a little.
Main Weapon Mount
Side View of full assembly
Some other final components were the fitting of 2 gun guards back to back on the front of the body between the front legs (looked a bit plain). I also added a few gems to the back and filled out the rear above the back legs with a vane. The leg mounts from the wraithlord were covered with the hip shield pieces from that kit.
Front guard & hip shields close up
Finally I positioned the legs and feet in a way which allowed the model to be rearing (although a fast running pose looked pretty good too)
Front and Rearview of the completed models
With that it was off to be painted at the Hobby shack - I love converting but unfortunately I am not much of a painter!
I'll also be picking up a more elaborate oval base for the model - probably a Secret weapon temple base, that should add the final finishing touches to the model. I always think a good base makes a huge difference.
In a few weeks I'll be able to pick up my new shiny new bright stallion and I'll be sure to post pictures of it completed.